MARRAKECH TRAVEL BLOG

Scooters drive around like crazy, passing right and left you are being pulled by shop owners who are trying to convince you to enter their store. Cheerful children rush past you and you hear the prayer call from the mosque in the background.

Welcome to the hectic Medina, the heart of Marrakech.

Marrakech is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco. The other three are Fez, Meknès and Rabat. These cities were once the capital once in the history of the kingdom.

This enchanting exotic city is just 3 hours of flight from Italy, but it’s a completely different world. It’s overwhelming yet full of life, it will fascinate you and take your breath away.

Anyone who travels to Marrakech expects a dream from the Arabian nights but is brought to the ground of reality pretty quickly. Some love it, others hate it, why? Many people who traveled to Marrakech with very high expectations and were subsequently left very disappointed. It is the most tourist city in Morocco, and the most beautiful: every corner is Instagram worthy with its colorful buildings, towers and amazing mosaics (I shoot over 200 photos on the first day).

The Medina is touristy and chaotic, but I did not find this disturbing at all. People speak here, in contrast to the rest of Morocco, pretty good English and French, which is the second offical Language.

We were in the country for a total of 6 days (precisely from March 29th to April 3rd, the Christian Easter weekend), which is more than enough time for sightseeing. We divided the stay into two parts, with an overnight stay in the desert splitting the vacation. In the Medina we stayed in two different Riads.

Speaking of accommodations, I highly recommend to experience the city at its best, to choose a riad as your lodging. What is it all about? Essentially, Riads are houses, with just a few rooms, that today function like B&Bs where you can feel at home and receive warm hospitality. The Riad was originally the traditional urban dwelling within the medinas of Morocco.

Our first Riad was the SAKKAN, a wonderful abode in the heart of the Medina, where once you cross the threshold, you no longer hear the hustle and bustle of the city but only the birdsong and the sound of water from the pools that make up the inner cloister of any Riad. In these establishments you will never see more than five service people, who, like silent ghosts, walk the length and breadth of the house.

The second Riad where we stayed was L'Ambre Epieces Riad, again in the heart of the medina. In an even quieter area. We were delighted with the genitleity and helpfulness of the staff who welcomed us, who never failed to give us advice about the city and ask us if we had everything we needed. They do everything possible to make your stay the best. Cups of tea with homemade cookies are brought without you asking for it!

Generally, the people are very nice. Hospitality is definitely a huge part of their culture and it shows.

There are two main areas in Marrakech, Old Medina and New Town. The medina is very traditional, it’s the old town of Marrakech and a labyrinth of allegedly narrow streets. You will need to show major clothing modesty if you’re a woman (I personally suggest: no deep cuts with V-neck; no shorts/skirts above the knee; covered shoulders)

The medina is where you will find the famous town square Jemaa el-Fna with all the souks. You need to be more cautious in terms of getting scammed because let’s be honest, the souks are not as romantic as you think. The new town is completely modern and gives off a totally different vibe with a more open mindset. There are also a lot more modern restaurants offering alcohol, music, and entertainment. It’s honestly crazy how different it is compared to Medina. As a side note, Marrakech is a very big city with a very confusing layout. The roads do not follow any patterns, especially in the medina. You can walk all of the medina and a lot of the streets will not be car accessible. If you go outside, your best bet is a meter taxi (also INSIST that they turn on their meter because if they see that you’re a tourist, a lot of the taxis will try to scam you).

The first day in the Medina can be exhausting. And I'm not talking about the exhaustion from the long walks through the city. Marrakech tenses up your every sense, your vision lost in the millions of colors stretching all around you, from the mosaic-adorned doors to the thousands of carpets and cloths displayed in the stalls. But most of all, the endless amount of objects displayed in the souks (the traditional Arab markets), from colorful prints, to ceramics of every hue and shape, from metal lamps with their characteristic holes to the thousands of sandals typical of Morocco. The shop owners, especially in the older parts of town were pushy, sometimes even aggressive.

In addition, in case you are interested in any purchases, you will have to bargain vigorously! negotiating or bartering is part of the experience!

Oh, I forgot, you always have to stay focused while walking (and especially while taking photos) to avoid being run over by one of the thousands of scooters whizzing past you and into the crowd.

A lot of Morocco is full of scammers. People are going to appear overly friendly so be smart. They most likely just want to sell you things. In my experience, most people are not dangerous but they do want to make a profit off of you if you’re a tourist. Side note, as a woman, you will most likely get cat-called multiple times per day. If you’re accompanied by a man, you probably won’t.

We visited Marrakech during the Ramadan period. Initially, before the trip, this detail had worried me, as I had read that this could affect our stay significantly (early closing times, closing of most restaurants, not eating in front of Muslim people out of respect, not drinking alchol in public...). Yes, it actually did not seem like a good time for tourism... But I had to change my mind, because it did not impact our trip in the least. On the contrary, it was an interesting snapshot of a particular time of the year when these people devote their devotion to Allah with all their might. They don't drink or eat anything at all until the evening. But it is when the sun goes down that the city begins to come alive. From 7 p.m. onward, right after Maghrib (sunset), Iftar, the breaking of the fast, takes place and people gather to eat their meals together. We also had no problem with any early closures of museums or stores, and despite Ramadan, there were plenty of tourists and locals seemed to be perfectly accustomed to the presence of so many people even during such a sensitive period. Inside some bars and restaurants one could safely consume drinks containing alchol even before Iftar.

Marrakech has an incredible variety of restaurants and cafes. There are simple, inexpensive street restaurants as well as hip, international trendy restaurants with fusion cuisine. Moroccan food is full of flavor, with tasty spices and seasonings, and cooked in a unique way. I highly recommend trying couscous, tagines, skewers, and traditional salads when you're dining out.

In the Medina you can also find magnificent terraces from which to watch the sunset.

The best terraces we visited are: La Terrasse des epices, El Fenn Riad, Le Café Arabe.

While some of our favourites restaurants: Dar Zellij, a typical Marrakech restaurant where you can eat the best Tajine, Bistrot Arabe (a wonderful jazz restaurant inside a Riad), Comptoir Darna for a dinner with a show, and Le Jardin Marrakech, for a courtyard lunch surrounded by beautiful trees.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN MARRAKECH

Jamaa el-Fnaa

This enormous square on the edge of the Medina comes to life, especially in the evening. The place is incredibly spacious, incredibly chaotic – and incredibly touristy. It is not that great, neither is it fun, with all pickpockets, cheaters and sellers with monkeys on a chain. But it is a place that belongs to Marrakech. We viewed the spectacle from above, on one of the roof terraces on the square, and that is very nice!

Ben Youssef Mosque

The oldest and most important mosque in the city, no visit to Marrakech is complete with a visit to the beautiful Ben Youssef Mosque. It was of our favorite places in Marrakech! The Ben Youssef Madrasa is a former Koran school, it probably dates back to the 14th century. Although the building is not too spacious, we spent at least an hour soaking up the flair and taking photos of the mosaics.

Palais Bahia

One of the most beautiful sights in Marrakech is without a doubt the magnificent Bahia Palace.

This 19th-century palace is now home to the Moroccan Ministry of Cultural Affairs and it beautifully combines Andalusian and Moorish architecture.

When visiting, you usually follow the tour that leads you through countless rooms and courtyards. You will pass orange trees, fountains, elaborate carvings and mosaics – in short: a paradise for all those who can do something with Moroccan architecture.

I highly recommend this palace, because of the peace and beautiful mosaics that you see everywhere. Wander from room to room and sometimes sit down to view the beautiful colours in the courtyards. As long as you are already there, also visit the nearby Tombeaux Saadiens, a beautiful garden where the tombs of the Saadian dynasty.

Majorelle Gardens

The Jardin Majorelle is one of the most visited attractions in Marrakech and is highly praised in many travel guides. This botanical garden was once bought by the French artist Yves Saint Laurent and extensively redesigned in several stages.

The color scheme is rather strange: cobalt blue and yellow are predominant. In the midst of huge cacti and palm trees, cobalt blue and yellow elements such as pavilions or benches flash out.

The Jardin Majorelle is an oasis away from the hectic medina of Marrakech.

In addition to the Jardin Majorelle itself, you can also visit the Berber Museum and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum.

El Badi Palace

Located within walking distance of the equally magnificent Bahia Palace, the el-Badi Palace is a popular destination for Marrakech sightseeing tours. Visitors can admire the vast prayer hall and large courtyard, spot the storks that now nest in the palace's ancient walls and see the famous minbar (pulpit) of Koutoubia, which dates back to the 12th century.

Tea Time

While it’s not the first place you might associate with high tea, the tea culture here is strong. You’ll find delicious mint tea all over the city or you can go to spots like Riad Chayma or La Mamounia for a classic high tea.

DESERT TIME

As written at the beginning of this post, we decided to split our stay in Marrakech by going to the Agafay desert for one night. It was the best idea we could have come up with. Taking a mid-journey break from the overwhelming chaos of the Medina to enjoy the peace and scenery of the Agafay desert, an hour from Marrakech, was simply wonderful.

The Agafay desert is a hidden gem that not many tourists know about. It’s often overshadowed by the Sahara, but it’s just as breathtaking and has a unique charm of its own. With its rocky hills, dry riverbeds, and vast expanses of sand, the Agafay desert is a haven for adventure seekers.

The facility where we stayed is called Oxygen Lodge Agafay, an oasis of relaxation in the midst of dirt dunes, camels and breathtaking views of the snow-capped mountains of Morocco.

The lodge, like many others in this desert, is structured with a central body, and a series of tents set up around the inside of which we can find guest bedrooms. The rooms in question are really well structured (we had a very windy day and the tent showed incredible resilience) and equipped with bathrooms and air conditioning.

A variety of activities can be booked at the front desk, including desert quad and camel rides. We opted for the quad bike and it was a super fun experience! If you’re looking for a thrilling adventure then the Agafay quad experience is the perfect activity. This excursion will take you on an exciting ride through the Agafay desert terrain on a powerful quad bike. You’ll get to explore the desert and discover its unique landscapes and culture.

But the best part were the stars at night. Thanks to the total darkness that surrounded us, away from the artificial lights of the cities, we were able to admire the Moroccan sky and its infinity of stars, in the coziness of a nearby fire that warmed us from the cold of the night. It was truly one of the most beautiful moments of my life, an experience that in my opinion is worth the whole trip to Morocco.

We’ve wandered the maze-like streets of the medina’s souks, smelled a thousand and one herbs and spices from the street-side vendors, experienced an incredible adventure in the desert (as well as getting extremely close to the resident camels). Marrakesh was a beautiful, lively city packed with plenty of sights to see and places to visit. We loved taking a wander around with and without a guide and seeing the city come alive at night. For anyone who has never been to Morocco, I strongly suggest visiting Marrakech, because it is an experience that will shock your senses and take you to another planet.